A Tube of Toothpaste

Evelyn

Ama

Joe

I just need to get a couple of things out of the way.  I noticed last year and continue to be amazed by these two observations.  First, I can’t believe how many Ghanaians leave their homes wearing white and return home with their clothing still looking clean and fresh!  In the Greater Accra Region of Ghana there is a lot of red dust and, this year, mud.  If I were to wear white I’d come home looking like I’d rolled in the stuff.  White, even in Oregon, is not a great color choice for a slob like me.

Second, the beauty of eyelashes here astonishes me: thick, dark, long, curly, and unadorned.  When one sits in a tro-tro practically on other people’s laps for any length of time you start to notice things like this.

Broom

I have a practice of mindful meditation that I try to do every morning no matter where I am.  I go out early in the morning and listen to the city wake up.  I feel the most peace and serenity when I am outdoors.  The home I am staying in while in Ghana has a great balcony that I use for this purpose.  I go up there around 5am each morning and start my meditation.   I just sit and listen.  For the first 5 minutes or so there is almost total silence and all I can hear is my breathing.  That doesn’t last long.  I first start to hear the birds singing then roosters start crowing and an occasional barking dog.  I can hear the traffic noise start up.  I begin to hear the sounds of human activity; doors opening, water being fetched, the sound of flip flops clicking and shuffling along the dirt roads and paths.  About 5:30am, I hear three men, who meet every day on the corner near my home, gather for their morning greetings.  Then the sound comes that never fails to make me smile and signals the end of my meditation; the sound of dirt being swept.  Lawns and cement sidewalks and driveways are not common but the dirt in front of homes and businesses is kept neat and tidy.  It may sound strange but there is something touching about this aspect of daily life.

These guys are everywhere!

Ghana sits very near the equator.  It took me several years of travel, much of it spent near the equator, to realize that at this longitude day and night are of equal lengths every day of the year.  I’ve noticed that Ghanaian life seems to center around this fact.  People are up and ready to begin the day at first light, around 6am, and are ending their day around sundown; 6pm.  This is not to say that there is no night life in Ghana; there most certainly is. Proof positive comes to me from the noise generated from the “Spot” (drinking establishment) near my home where loud music and seeming merriment is generated until the wee hours of the morning.  However, daily life for many in Ghana seems to follow the sun.  I try to be home before dark every evening partially because I do not feel safe traveling after nightfall. This seems to make my host family very happy.

I wrote a fair bit about hairstyles in Ghana last year.  Men tend to keep their hair very short or shave their heads; with the exception of a few “Rasta men” who sport dread locks.  Women, on the other hand, often have very elaborate coiffures.  Wigs and weaving are popular.  Although many “go natural” women, in general, are very attentive to their hair.  I, on the other hand, am a wash and wear type of woman.  I came to Ghana with my hair much too long for my liking.  My hair kept getting between my eyes and my eyeglasses.  I finally bought a head band.  I went into class, removed my hat, shoved back my hair with the headband, and announced to my class, “I don’t care how this looks I’m just tired of having my hair in my eyes.”   The men in class actually snickered.  Shaking their heads the women, in unison, bowed their heads while “clucking their tongues” at my “shame”.  One of the men said, “Well, that’s certainly not something you hear from women in Ghana!!”  I went and got a haircut the next day.

After last year I am very grateful that I had the foresight to bring a heavy duty sport bra.  Last year I brought light weight "comfortable" bras.  Given the conditions of many of the roads in Ghana this was not a wise choice!!

The other day I was riding in a tro-tro when a woman got on and sat beside me with a canister of propane! I understand that propane is the main fuel used for cooking and one has to get their fuel home somehow but I was just a little bit alarmed.  I felt immense relief when the women and her propane got off the bus just a few stops later.  This got me to thinking about personal safety.  There are many things that would be “unacceptable” in the United States that seem perfectly normal here.  

Seatbelts and car seats are the exception and not the rule.  Although I believe seatbelts are required for tro-tro drivers (I see them put them on whenever we come to a police barrier) I seldom see seatbelts being worn.  The only car seats I’ve seen are in the car of a woman who is from the United States.  Children, when they are fortunate enough to have a car to ride in, do what we use to do when I was a kid, sit on their parent’s laps in the front seat or roam freely in the back. 

Crossing a street can be an exercise in courage.  Pedestrians do not have the right-of-way and traffic is insane.  I’ve seen a few crosswalks but they are largely ignored.  When crossing a street I have learned to just follow the crowd.  I have also taken rides in tro-tros where I, literally, have to hold the door shut!

Another safety issue; houses are locked-up pretty tightly.  Doors are always locked and windows are barred. One of the homes I live in part time does not even have a back door!  In the homes I have lived in both summers in Ghana there is absolutely no way I can get out at night.  I don’t let myself think about these things too much.  I am not in Eugene. I am not in Oregon. I am not in the United States.

Last Year

This Year

A couple of things happened this week, in the scope of things are pretty small, that have special meaning to me.  Last year I took pictures of several children.  For the children I could identify and remembered where they lived I had the pictures printed and put them in frames.  I carried 9 photographs with me back to Ghana.  My first week back I went to the children’s homes and delivered the pictures.  A few days ago I was walking to work through a school yard.  I heard someone calling, “Madame, Madame, Madame.”  Because I am used to being called “obroni” (the word for “white person”) I did not immediately realize the person was calling to me.  When I finally responded it turned out to be the mother of two of the little girls who I delivered pictures to.  She thanked me generously for the photos.  She said that they had made her girls “very happy” and that this was the only photograph she had of her children.  I was touched.  I took a picture of the family this year. 

I was also very touched by a gift I was given.  I teach on aspects of recovery, such as triggers, boundaries, and protecting one’s self from relapse, at a treatment center called the House of St. Francis.  The recovery program used at the house is called Recovery Dynamics which is a 12 Step based approach to treatment (an evidence based practice, BTW). So, I also do education on the 12 Steps.  One of the men was leaving the house to return home.  He presented me with a gift.  It was wrapped in notebook paper with his name carefully printed on the front.  I opened it and it was a tube of toothpaste.  I don’t think that I have ever been so honored with a gift in my life.  He wanted to thank me so he gave the only thing he had available.  The gratitude I felt from this simple and heartfelt gift was overwhelming.  

God was in the house!!

There is an 8.7 mile stretch of highway in Accra, Ghana named after former U.S. President George W. Bush.  The former N1 highway is officially, since 2012, the George Walker Bush Motorway. The decision to name the highway after the former American president was in recognition of his contributions towards the establishment of the Millennium Challenge Corporation which funded the construction of the highway.  I’ve asked a few Ghanaians who this man is and not one has provided a correct answer; although one was close in saying he was the first president of the U.S. (same first name anyway)!!!  Hell, his presidency was not that memorable even in the U.S.  If I asked the average teenager in the United States I might find the same scenario.  

My experience tells me that Ghanaians don’t do anything small.  A celebration is a CELEBRATION and an event is an EVENT!!  Weddings can be elaborate and they are preceded by an even more elaborate Engagement.  An Outdooring, which takes place on a baby’s eighth day of life, when the child is presented to the world, is a happening.  Funerals take at least three days; one day for viewing, one for mourning, and one for burying.  I’ve heard that funerals use to take a year but modern life has shortened the time period.  

Also graduations, even if they are for two to six year olds, are quite the affair.  I was invited to the Oakwood International School Graduation Ceremony.  The theme for the graduation was:  “Quality is Not an Act but a Habbit” (not a typo!!).  Stephanie (4) and Jayden (2) (the grandchildren in the family I am staying with) were graduating from Pre-Kindergarten and Nursery Class; children start school at two years old in Ghana.  

Stephanie and Jayden in their school uniforms with their mother, Joyce

We were requested to be there by 9am so that the children could prepare for the program, which was to start at 10am.  By 10:30am all of the children had not yet shown up so the decision was made to start the program without them.  Based on my limited experience this is pretty typical in Ghana.  So here was the program:

·         Opening Prayer

·         Mock assembly

·         Welcome address and invitations of officials to high table

·         Pulpit performance

o   Pastor Selasie (Prophet)

o   Pastor Michael (Apostle)

o   Pastor Sethyna (Sorfo Maame)

·         Choir singing

·         Choreography Shakalili group

·         Nursery class presentation:  Butterfly

·         Everyone in the community is important: short Drama by grade 1

·         Pre-kindergarten Class performance:  Borborbor dance

·         Speed test by Grade 2

·         Farmer

·         School report – School Adminsitrator

·         Spelling bee contest by Kindergarten graduates

·         Guest speaker’s speech

·         Nagra dance

·         Graduation ceremony Modeling by Grade 2

·         Award ceremony

·         Announcements

·         Closing prayer

·         Refreshments

None of the presentations lasted less than 15 minutes; and some much more.  The spelling bee listed was an actual spelling bee with eight 5-year old contestants fighting it out to last person standing.  The “speed test” was a math face-off between the girls and the boys that lasted several rounds.  The dances were full length.  It was astonishing.  However, this was a bit much for this old “obroni” with a short little span of attention.  Actually, I think it was a bit much for the Ghanaians in the audience also.  I KNOW it was a bit much for the children.  Nearly 7 hours later I sat beside very tired and cranky 2 and 4 year olds on the way home.  

It was actually pretty amazing and I am glad that I had the privilege of attending this slice of real life during my time here.  I don’t think it’s on the average tourists agenda!!  The school administrator’s speech was actually really inspiring.  She quoted Derek Bok, “If you think education is expensive, try ignorance.”  Ain’t that the truth!!

I’ve been to three church services since I’ve been in Ghana.  I went to church several times last summer while I was here.  One startling difference from last year is the way people seem to dress for church.  Last year the women were mostly dressed in elaborate African traditional clothing, including headdress.  This year most women seemed to dress western style.  Oh, they are still in their “Sunday go to meetin’” attire it just looks different without the colorful Ghanaian clothing.

The first service I went to was in a Charismatic church with a congregation of about 200 people.  The preacher’s topic was “What can prayer not do?” It was a great topic and a great sermon.  He even used one of my favorites, “Faith without works is dead.”  He preached for about an hour and a half and I thought it was over.  He was just taking a break.  He came back for another two hours.  This had been preceded by an hour of singing and dancing and was followed by another hour of announcements followed by even more singing. Wow, do these Ghanaians have stamina!! 

Auntie Comfort in her choir robe

The second service I went to was at Our Lady of Mercy Catholic Church with around 500 members of the congregation. I’ve been to Mass many times and this was pretty typical. My hosts, Comfort and Alfred are members. 

My Hosts, Uncle Alfred and Auntie Comfort

One difference, the offering was given pretty much like communion.  Everyone gets up, in order, and dances to the front of the church, puts money in the basket, then dances back to their appropriate seat.  This was repeated for an offering for the women of the church.  Then something called the “offertory” where members of the congregation offer food, water, toilet paper, and various other daily needs.  I assume these are for the Priests so that their needs are taken care of.  Another difference, the hymn music is accompanied by traditional African drummers.  It’s pretty cool.    

After the service a doctor was going to give a presentation on ebola.  He got a couple of minutes into the speech and just kind of slowly tipped over.  He was carried off but a few minutes later he returned to the podium with an apology.  Just as he was about to restart his talk he slowly started to go over again.  In unison the congregation went “ahhhhh” and the Priests and Alter Boys rushed over to catch him on the way down.  The ebola talk was postponed and the doctor was whisked away in an ambulance.  Never did hear what that was all about.

Evelyn and Joe

The third service was at the Pure Fire Miracle Missionaries, a “mega-church” with about 5,000 members of the congregation.  There was singing, dancing, jumping, shouting, more singing, and just a lot of movement and noise.  The preacher screamed so loud and got so close to the microphone that I could not understand a single word he said. I actually fell asleep a couple of times and got elbowed by Evelyn (who I stayed with last year).  After going on for a couple of hours yelling and jumping, covered in sweat, the preacher finally ran out of steam.  He turned it over to the assistant pastor for more of the same.  About three hours total.

Pure Fire Congregation

Pure Fire Church

What was similar about all three of these services?  God was in the house!!  I felt moved by the faith and love of God at each of these churches.  I was moved to tears at the pure joy I found from the people of these churches.  They may worship God in various ways but the power of belief is abundant in each church.  I even found myself “swaying” a few times which, for those who know me, is about as close to dancing as I ever get.

We do it for the children of Ghana

My friends and blog followers I am trying to keep up on my adventures in Ghana but my access to the internet is sporadic and unpredictable.  Sometimes I can get on-line for 10 minutes and other times up to an hour but I never know how long I have once I actually get logged on.  Also, there seems to be no such thing as “high speed internet” here!!

 

My priority is to get my work related duties done as quickly as possible.  I then keep up with communications from family and friends and, lastly, the blog.  Each picture I download and then upload takes a fair amount of time.  I could forgo the pictures but, frankly, I don’t think my words have as much impact as the pictures.  So, slowly but surely, I will continue to blog whenever possible.  

I also want to add the usually disclaimer.  Anything I write about Ghana is from my own impressions and observations.  I do not claim to know anything.  I just write what I see and what I feel. 

The minute I landed in Ghana I felt I was exactly where I am supposed to be.  The sights, sounds, tastes, and smells were instantly comfortable and familiar.  One of the readings done every day at the House of St. Francis says, “…there was a certain sense of security in the familiar.”  Although taken out of context this line is certainly true about how I feel being back.  The first time around everything was new and sometimes scary.  I walked around for much of my time wide-eyed and open mouth with my camera constantly at the ready soaking in a culture that was totally strange to me.  This time I almost forget that I have a camera, I’m a tro-tro pro, and I had no trouble at all informing the service staff at a restaurant that I knew I was being overcharged.  I hit the ground running.

For the most part I have quit noticing the abundance of “farm animals” that are everywhere.  However, I was walking on my break and had the privilege of witnessing the last stages in the birth of twin goats/sheep (it’s hard to tell the difference here).  The second twin had almost finished its entry into this world when I came upon them.  Circling around them was a flock of the most stunning, bright yellow butterflies I have ever seen.  The babies were pristine white and the contrast of the yellow of the butterflies was a beautiful sight.  This is something you just do not see in Eugene, Oregon.  A few days later I ran into the little family again and could not help taking a picture. 

The startling whiteness of the newborns had faded to slightly grey but I still felt the newness of their time on earth and felt a connection from having watched them enter the world.

I LOVE what I am doing here in Ghana.  For those of you who don’t know I work in the field of addiction treatment and recovery.  Much of my time is spent at a treatment center called the House of St. Francis were I also spent time working last summer. 

The House of St. Francis

On August 1^st the House of St. Francis celebrated its second anniversary.  I can’t even express the gratitude I have for the privilege of being witness to the success of this facility.  When I was here last year they had 13 residents.  This year they are at top capacity of 25.  There is actually room for up to 40 men to be in residential treatment but there are only 2 staff members, who, by the way, are volunteers with only a very small stipend, and their workload is at its peak.  Not great incentive for potential new staff.  These two men, Edwin and George are shining examples of selfless service.  Dan O’Laughlin, the Chairman of the Board of the Hopeful Way Foundation, the man who made my stay in Ghana possible, is constantly scrambling to find ways to keep the House of St. Francis solvent; another example of selfless service.  If you are looking for tax deductible donations to make at the end of the year please keep Recovery Africa in mind!

Sometimes one wonders about their purpose in life.  I have often said that it is my hope to plant seeds of recovery in individuals knowing that I may never see the seeds to germination and growth.  I am okay with that.  Just the knowledge that the seed has been planted is enough; to help an individual who has lived a life in the misery of addiction to realize that there is a better way to live and that it is up to them to nurture the seed -- or not.  Two days after my arrival in Ghana I received the most precious gift I have ever received from another human being.  One of the men I worked with last year was at a meeting.  He now has over one year clean and sober.  He said, “Whenever I have hard times in my recovery I remember what Shelia said, that this is a program of action.  I remember to take action and then I am okay.”  This is my purpose in life.

My living arrangement in Ghana is divided between two homes within the same family.  Alfred and Comfort have opened their home to me five nights per week. 

My home 5 nights per week

Their daughter, Joyce, and her family, Steven, Stephanie, and Jayden, host me the other two nights of the week.  The generosity of these people is astounding.  They have made me feel welcome and a part of the family.  On Monday and Friday evenings I go to 12 Step meetings in Accra.  Depending on traffic the journey can take from 45 minutes up to two hours.  I take a bus/tro-tro with the guys from the House of St. Francis.  I get back rather late and, since Joyce’s home is close by I stay with her in Ashaiman.

My house 2 night per week; third door on the right

   

On the other nights I stay with Comfort    and Alfred in Tema.

On my second Saturday in Ghana Comfort made Fu Fu and Groundnut (Peanut) Soup for dinner.  Although Fu Fu is a staple in Ghana and some women make it every day, its production is no easy feat.  Fu Fu is made from plantains and cassava.  First the tubers are peeled, cut, and boiled.  Then they are pounded into the consistency of bread dough. 

Comfort and Raymond pounding Fu Fu

The Groundnut Soup also takes some effort.  First the groundnut paste is fried until the “part that makes you sick is taken out”; I’m assuming this means whatever is in peanuts that many are allergic to is somehow removed.  Then onions, peppers, tomatoes, and spices are added to make the soup.  Comfort also added Garden Eggs (similar to eggplant) and chicken.  The Fu Fu is placed in bowls (in portions sizes seemly as large as my head!) and then the groundnut soup is poured over it.

Groundnut Soup

Fu Fu

Fu Fu and Groundnut Soup

It is then eaten with fingers.  The whole family gathered to enjoy the “Fu Fu of her labor”!!!  I felt honored that Comfort went to the effort to prepare this traditional Ghanaian dish for me.

Auntie Comfort and Uncle Alfred

Jayden, Steven, Stephanie, and Joyce

The last segment of this post is about the children.  I love the children of Ghana.  They are not inside watching television or playing video games; they are outside playing.  Whenever I am out I can hear the laughter of children and it makes my heart smile.   Although little if any money is spent on toys the children have no trouble finding entertainment.  I’ve seen them play some sort of game with bottle caps and pebbles.  If a soccer/football is not available they make use of can, bottles, and even crumpled up pieces of paper.  Old bike tires seem a frequently used toy.  It is inspiring to see how imaginative and creative the children can be.   

When I am working with people in the area of recovery, whether addicts or not, I am moved to remind them how important it is to spread and maintain recovery in Africa; not only for themselves but also for the children.  Some of the children of Ghana that I delightedly watch will need recovery programs someday.  It is important to build and strengthen our own recovery and the recovery support systems in Ghana so that when these children need it help will be there for them.